Fall Foliage

I just checked a foliage tracker, and our upcoming visit to New England (10/1 to 10/12) should put us in the middle of peak to past-peak colors as we wend our way up from Boston, along the coast of Maine, over to New Hampshire and down through Vermont. New England has been through the weather wringer this year (e.g., wildfire smoke, floods, hurricane winds, etc.), so we will be exceedingly fortunate to observe the region in a more or less “normal” state. Truth be told, the weather won’t be the wildcard in this adventure as the Federal government is going to shut down on Saturday at mid-night, and we will board our flight a few hours later. I’m not expecting any trouble from the shut down on the way out, but, come 10/12, it might be tricky getting home if no government workers are being paid. Goodness knows, I’d be tempted to call in sick were I an unpaid air traffic controller or TSA worker. Crossing the fingers! (Note: Congress averted the shutdown just hours before the deadline). I will use this space to record some thoughts and impressions as we chase peak foliage over the course of the next 10 days.

• Boston: Two days in Boston gave us a good opportunity to explore and get a sense of the city. We bought tickets for both a narrated trolley tour and a classic, tall, sailing ship outing in the harbor. The former covered major sites, wending its way through the labyrinth of twisty streets. The latter afforded great views of the skyline and jets taking off from Logan Airport. We enjoyed watching the crew hoist the sails and make adjustments along the way. A guide provided a walking tour on the Freedom Trail, peppering the stroll with anecdotes about revolutionary war heroes and the long history of the area. I had forgotten that Boston was settled in the 1600s–long before the battle for independence. It was also interesting to hear about how the churches and the taverns provided equally good venues for politicking. Were it not for the Harvard educated clergy and the local gangs, the instigators like Samuel Adams and Paul Revere would have had a much more difficult time whipping up anti-loyalist sympathies. We enjoyed walking through the Boston Common where the Make Way for Ducklings and the newer The Embrace sculptures reside. The tour guide took us into the North End, an Italian neighborhood, where we had lunch at The Cantina Italiana and followed up by a trip to Mike’s Pastry where we sampled a chocolate chip cannoli. I’m not a huge fan of sweetened ricotta cheese, so the cannoli hype is a bit lost on me. We passed by the Marriott Vacation Club Pulse (i.e., Custom House) on one of our walks and made note that it would be a good way to use some MVC points in the future.

Grand Summit Hotel at Attitash/New Hampshire: The tour continued up the coast of Maine today, driving through a thick blanket of fog that was proclaimed anomalous by our tour guide. It didn’t allow us to appreciate the full picturesque beauty of the Portland Head Light, a striking lighthouse on the tip of Cape Elizabeth, but we did our best to wrest some photos from the gloom. The bus carried us into downtown Portland in the late morning where we took an early lunch in the Old Port area. We had time to stroll the touristy area and collect some souvenirs along with chowing down on the famous potato donuts at The Holy Donut. All the towns up and down the coast of Maine have interesting harbors, and Portland is no exception.

The afternoon involved a 2-hour drive inland into New Hampshire and up to a mountain resort in the shadow of Mount Washington. An after diner lecture on the ecology of the North Woods informed us that a handful of unique factors create Artic weather conditions at the summit for much of the year. We could be heading into a blizzard tomorrow as the group takes the cog railway up to the top of the mountain. No doubt that everyone will bring all the layers they can dig out of their suitcases. Our speaker also talked about the process that the deciduous trees go through each fall, shedding their leaves to preserve moisture through the frozen winter. He described the plants as sun packaging systems that provide the building blocks for all life forms. In essence, celestial light runs through our blood and bodies as we take in the sustenance that comes out of this amazing process.

Grand Summit Hotel at Attitash/New Hampshire – Day 2: The anticipated storm front arrived in all its rainy glory today, and there was no escape. Aside from a few breaks in the wet onslaught, the group spent most of its time aboard the bus or running for cover. The itinerary called for a trip up to the summit of Mount Washington on the cog railway system built in the late 1800s. Mt. Washington’s claim to fame is the worst weather on the planet, so the rain below was mild in comparison to what we encountered at 6,288 feet. Sustained winds of 50-60 mph, accompanied by driving, sideways rain ensured that we experienced a bit of the worst that the mountain can dish out. Given the advertising, I suppose someone could be disappointed if they arrived at the summit and had good views and sunny skies. The saving grace for the hour-long chug at 5 mph up and down was the entertaining spiel provided by the brakeman. Another plus was the amply stocked gift shop where I acquired another long-sleeve tee and a commemorative shot glass.

After lunch at the Appalachian Mountain Club, a haven for hikers along the trail, we headed to a farm outside of Bethlehem, NH for a demonstration of maple syrup production. The presentation was followed by a tasting, and we were given the opportunity to purchase the delectable nectar. Janet and I purchased six half-pints that will be shipped to Eugene. It was interesting to learn that the old method of attaching buckets to the trees had given way to a more efficient method of collecting sap. Plastic lines are run between the trees and the sap flows through the lines to a collector. The outdoor temperature needs to stay between 20 and 40 degrees for the sap to run, so the length of the harvest is totally dependent on how long those conditions last from late February into March. Our host said that the season has been as short as 10 days and as long as 6 weeks. Collecting sap year after year does not harm the trees, and they can be in production for a long period of time.

The bus drove the group to the town of North Conway where we were turned loose to find a restaurant for dinner. Luckily, we had the foresight to bring umbrellas on the trip because the search for a place to dine was a wet, soggy affair. The tour group has coalesced into an amiable band of travelers. By in large, we know everyone’s name and pleasant greetings are exchanged throughout the day. My guess is that we are among the youngest members of the entourage, but the octogenarians on the trip are spirited, smart and more than capable. Extensive travel is evidently a good tonic for staying young in spirit and vital in body. Barring the prospect of debilitating disease, it’s clear that healthy individuals can be active and engaged well into their 80s. Road Scholar is highly attuned to the needs of seniors, and older people can take its trips with confidence. I have a strong impulse to begin planning the next trip, even though we still have four days remaining on this one!

Kancamagus Highway: Today we drive across New Hampshire on the highway famous for the colors of its fall foliage. Apparently, this is annual trek for many in the region. We were told by the concierge at the Grand Summit that travelers coming from Vermont were extoling the beauty, so today should be leaf-tacular! Photo-stops are planned along the way so the group can snap pics of covered bridges and otherwise charming locales.

The parade of cars and buses across New Hampshire was reminiscent of the Yellowstone experience where too many people vie for too few perfect viewing spots. In this case, the objects of adoration are mountainsides spackled with yellows, reds and oranges and covered bridges spanning pristine rivers. We have a skilled driver who threads the bus through narrow gauntlets of parked vehicles providing the group with optimal vantage points each and every stop. We stopped for lunch in Woodsville, NH, just across the river from Vermont. The Rueben sandwiches with fries topped off with blueberry crisp (for Janet) and chocolate peanut butter pie (for me) provided a delicious repast. Unfortunately, Janet missed a step on the way out and fell. She has several bumps and bruises that we hope will amount to naught. Since her fall that broke both of her wrists, we no longer poo-pah tumbles of this type.

The afternoon activity today a stop to visit the Fairbanks Museum and Planetarium in St. Johnsbury, VT. The Fairbanks were one of the prominent founding families and, among holding political office and running a bank, built a museum to house animal specimens from around the world. It’s a stunning display of expert taxidermy and an opportunity to see species up close that would be impossible in the wild. It just so happened that Daniel Tiger was visiting today and lots of families with small children came through for story time and a chance to pose with the celebrity tiger.

Traveling through these northern New England states, I’m struck by the absence of urbanization. Outside the settled towns, you don’t see malls, housing developments, fast food restaurants, gasoline stations, etc. This gives the region a very rural feel. It seems like everyone lives in the woods on tree lined two lane roads. The overriding colonial architecture that prevails also lends a historical feel. It turns out that Vermont has both the least populous capital city (Montpelier) in the USA and the least populous largest city in the state (Burlington). However small it may be, Vermont has Bernie Sanders and that makes up for a lot!

After four nights in two older facilities, we are back to sleek and modern in Burlington. The Marriott Courtyard Burlington Harbor sits right on Lake Champlain, and we can see across the lake to distant New York from our room on the fifth floor. Tomorrow, we will have an opportunity to explore the town and dine out on our own. Janet has several contusions and will be sporting big bruises. Fortunately, the injuries were not worse. Sadly, she is going to be sore.

Burlington, VT: First thing this morning, we drove to Ferrisburgh to visit the Rokeby Museum, a farm that had been occupied by four generations of the same family. Over the course of their 200 year tenure, the Robinsons expanded their operations to 1,200 acres and constructed a large house, dairy barn, slaughter house, chicken coop, granary and toolshed. The 2nd generation of the family was also known for their strong abolitionist beliefs, and they helped a number of free born and enslaved people through the Vermont underground railroad. The property has a small museum that documents this activity and preserves an extensive collection of furniture, household items, documents and linens. We returned to Burlington for lunch at American Flatbread and then enjoyed an afternoon at leisure. The downtown, a short distance from the University of Vermont campus, gave off a distinctive college town vibe. Ben and Jerry’s, head quartered in Vermont, has an outlet just up the street from our hotel on Cherry Garcia Street. Janet and I signed up for an hour boat cruise on Lake Champlain. Really a small inland sea, the lake stretches 128 miles from Quebec to Whitehall, NY. The ship took us out and around a small island and back along the shoreline. Every large body of water needs a mythical monster, and Lake Champlain is no exception. Going back to the indigenous people who have long lived near the Lake, there are legends about a large creature inhabiting the waters. There have been hundreds of reported sightings of the beast known as “Champ.”

Grafton, VT: A travel day, we left Burlington at 10:00 a.m. and headed south towards Grafton, VT. I think this was intended to be our opportunity to see the fall colors in all their glory, but the foliage gods did not deign to impress us. The hillsides took on muted hues of muddy yellow with very little red and no orange to be seen. I’ve come to see that the fall colors are not better in New England … there are just more trees to be seen. The deciduous growth covers the mountainsides like an endless carpet, so it’s the sheer bulk of the change that draws visitors from all over. The weather has been cloudy for several days and that also affects the leaf peeping. Sunlight bouncing off the trees would make the colors pop, but our shining star has been hiding since we left Maine.

The small towns between Burlington and Grafton are charming and quaint. Boxy colonials cluster in the woods, creating small hamlets that simultaneously make you want to move there but also make you wonder what the heck people do to make their livings. Perhaps everyone is either retired or works remotely because there isn’t any evidence of big employers. Not many states can compete with Oregon on the greenery scale, but Vermont is greenery on steroids. The countryside is lush even to the point of looking soggy. Every two lane road we traveled today traced a clear flowing stream or river. So, in spite of somewhat disappointing foliage, the scenery today was terrific.

We are spending the final two nights of the tour in Grafton, VT. It’s 7 miles from Chester, VT where I once attended a library conference in October. Grafton brings back memories of that visit long ago. We are staying in the Grafton Inn, a venerable lodging spot where the likes of Paul Newman and his wife Joanne, Ralph Waldo Emerson and Ulysses S. Grant have stayed. No two rooms in the Inn are the same and quaint overload is hard to keep at bay. There is a 200-year old mercantile just down the street that sells Vermont treasures like maple syrup, maple candy, maple cookies, Vermont cheese and other sundries. Having purchased an additional roller duffle in Burlington, we now have plenty of room for our souvenirs. Tonight and tomorrow we dine at the Grafton Inn. These should be enjoyable dining experiences given that everyone is quite familiar and comfortable with each other. I do find myself thinking of home and getting back to a more normal routine. We both miss Petey and his antics and will be happy to rejoin his company.

Since we’ve been in New England, an ugly war has broken out between Israel and Gaza. Hamas soldiers infiltrated Israel killing hundreds and taking hostages while simultaneously shooting thousands of rockets into the Jewish state. Israel promptly declared war and has been shelling targets in Gaza. It is a real mess and another severe blow to global peace. It all seems so remote and unreal as we nestle in this cozy village in Vermont.

Grafton, VT – Day 2: The final day on the tour turned out to be my favorite. We started the morning walking the main street of Grafton with a guide who was born in the town and worked at the Inn for 30 years as Assistant Innkeeper. Bill knows everyone in town and has a phenomenal grasp of the area’s history. He took us to the Historical Society where we looked at several exhibits and learned about some of the famous locals. Immediately thereafter, we hopped on the bus on headed to Dummerston, VT and the Scott Farm where all kinds of heirloom apples are grown and sold. The orchardist and general manager provided the group with a tasting of the crisp, delicious fruit. Lunch was served and included freshly baked apple pie for dessert. We then headed outdoors just as the sun broke through the clouds and visited The Stone Trust which is sited on the grounds of the Farm. I found this part of the day absolutely fascinating. The Trust is dedicated to preserving the art of dry stonewall building and offers workshops and even certifications to those wishing to take their skills to the professional level. The host explained the principles of stonewall building and led the group out into the training and demonstration area where we saw many examples of the art. We finished up by purchasing cider donuts and maple sugar in the gift shop. I also added a fourth t-shirt, courtesy of Janet’s generosity, to the haul from the trip. If this wasn’t enough, we stopped at the Grafton Village Cheese Shop for a tasting and additional purchases. And that concluded was of the best days on the tour. Tonight is the farewell dinner and tomorrow we drive straight to Logan International to catch our flight back to the Northwest.

This has been another great Road Scholar journey. The company clearly knows what it is doing and creates high quality experiences, especially for the senior set. The tour company offers a catalog of trips that grandparents can take with their grandchildren, and these are of interest to us. We heard several good reports from others who have done this. I doubt we will see any of our traveling companions again, but we will certainly remember some of the more memorable personalities amongst the group: Rusty the Texan who can whip up a mean gumbo; Carol the Californian who takes exotic trips with her son; Virginia the Missourian who seems perpetually grumpy and is always first in line; Jane the Californian who can talk you into a coma, etc. The tour hasn’t been very conducive to getting in our steps. There has been altogether too much sitting, yet it’s hard to see how this could be avoided. We have really appreciated our tour guide, Mary, and the bus driver, Bob. I’m glad we brought enough cash to give them a good tip. Well, that’s about it. Until next time!